How to Photograph Lightning Using Live Composite on OM System Cameras

Lightning photography has traditionally been a mix of timing and luck.  Set a series of long exposures and hope a strike happens while the shutter is open.

Live Composite changes that completely.

On a recent trip to Texas, I used Live Composite to photograph thunderstorms rolling across the open prairie. Instead of guessing, I could watch each lightning strike build into the image in real time—and stop when I got the composition I liked.

Before getting into the setup, a quick safety note: always shoot from a distance. Avoid being directly under storms, monitor movement, and prioritize safety over the shot.

What Is Live Composite (and Why It Works for Lightning)

Live Composite works by only adding new light to the image.

The first frame sets your base exposure. After that, only brighter changes—like lightning—are added, while the rest of the scene stays properly exposed.

This makes it ideal for lightning:

• Multiple strikes can build in one image
• The sky doesn’t overexpose
• You’re not relying on timing

With Live Composite, you’re watching the image build on the LCD and stopping when it looks right.

Why It’s Better Than Long Exposure

With traditional long exposures:

• No lightning = no image
• Too much time can result in a blown-out image

To capture multiple lightning strikes, you often need to take several exposures and blend them together later in post-processing. That adds extra time and complexity—and you still don’t know exactly how the final image will look until you’re back at the computer.

Live Composite removes that entire step.

Instead of combining images later, the camera builds the final image for you in real time—adding each lightning strike as it happens.

You’re not stacking exposures in post—you’re watching the composition come together in-camera and stopping when it looks right.

Achieving Sharp Focus Before You Start

Autofocus can struggle in dark storm conditions, so switching to manual focus helps ensure your images stay sharp.

• Switch your lens to manual focus
• Find a distant light source (city lights, a far building, or a bright star)
• Use focus magnification or focus peaking to fine-tune focus
• Once sharp, leave focus unchanged for the entire sequence

Make sure focus is set correctly before you start—there’s no fixing missed focus later.

How to Set Up Live Composite

The exact location of Live Composite can vary slightly depending on your camera model, but the process is similar across OM System and Olympus bodies.

On Newer OM System Cameras (like the OM-1)

1. Turn the mode dial to B (Bulb)
2. Use the rear dial to cycle past Live Bulb and Live Time to Live Composite (Live Comp)
3. Set your exposure time by pressing the menu button, selecting your exposure time, Pressing OK, then pressing the menu button a couple of time to return to the Live Composite screen.

On Older Olympus Cameras

1. Turn the mode dial to Manual (M)
2. Using the Rear Dial rotate the shutter speed past the longest exposure (e.g., 60s)
3. Then rotate the Rear Dial past Bulb and Live Time to Live Composite (Live Comp)
4. Set your exposure time by pressing the menu button, selecting your exposure time, Pressing OK, then pressing the menu button a couple of time to return to the Live Composite screen.

Start the Exposure

Once set:

1. Press the shutter once to capture the base frame
2. Press it again to start the Live Composite sequence
3. Watch the image build on the LCD
4. Press the shutter button to stop the Live Composite Exposure

Use a tripod and keep the camera steady.

Tip: A remote shutter release helps avoid introducing vibration when starting and stopping the exposure—especially during longer composite sequences.

Settings I Used in the Field

These worked well during a storm in Texas:

• ISO: 800
• Lens: Olympus 7–14mm f/2.8 PRO
• Aperture: f/5.6
• Exposure Time: 0.5 seconds

Why These Settings Work

• Short exposure time keeps the sky from getting too bright and helps control ambient light during storms

• f/5.6 balances depth of field and lightning intensity
• ISO 800 provides enough light with the bright storm without too adding too much noise to the image
• The wide focal length of the Olympus 7-14mm f/2.8 Pro Lens captures the full spread of lightning

Quick Adjustments

You may need to adjust your settings based on storm intensity and ambient light:

• Too bright → lower ISO or stop down
• Too dark → raise ISO or open aperture
• Very active storm → stop the sequence sooner

Composition Tips

• Keep the horizon low—let the sky dominate
• Include cloud structure for depth
• Capture horizontal spread of lightning
• Don’t overcrowd the frame

When to Stop the Exposure

Stop when:

• The image feels balanced
• You have enough lightning strikes
• The sky still has contrast

Think of it as building an image—not capturing a single moment.

Common Challenges

• Know your camera → practice accessing Live Composite and setting manual focus before you’re in the field in the dark
• Working in the dark → use a headlamp or small light when needed; a red light helps preserve night vision, but use it sparingly to avoid affecting your shot or others nearby
• Missed focus → confirm manual focus on a distant light before starting
• Changing storm conditions → be ready to adjust settings as intensity and ambient light shift
• Overcrowded frames → in active storms, stop early to avoid too many overlapping strikes

Conclusion

Live Composite turns lightning photography from a guessing game into a controlled process.

Instead of hoping for the right moment, you build it—one strike at a time.

If you’re shooting with an OM System camera, it’s one of the most effective and rewarding ways to photograph a storm.

Written by Martin Belan

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